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Archive for September, 1999

The Shadow: September 27, 1999

by on Sep.27, 1999, under Shadow

I finally solved the last of the annoying boost gremlins on this car!  I had yanked the Bosch BOV setup on the upper intercooler hose and replaced it with a stock T2 ribbed upper hose.  I have bad boost stacking without the BOV (very bad for this little turbo), but no more boost drop-off or random boost amounts.  Even though I have already tried removing the BOV and plugging the hole with a piece of wood, I wanted to dump this setup anyway.  First of all, I don’t like using that crazy setup with the two restrictors, check valve, and bleed to keep pressure on the BOV to keep it shut.  Second, I know that my IC has quite a pressure drop at high boost, so the BOV would probably be more effective on the lower IC hose.  Since I am not running more than 14psi (nor do I plan to), the stock BOV is perfect and it will also serve as protection because it will blow off the seat above 15psi in case something goes wrong with boost control.

So, I fabricated a new hose connection on the lower stock hose by cutting out a small section and putting a 1-1/2″ copper drain pipe in its place (the stock lower IC hose is 1-1/2″ ID).  I opted for copper because it was easy to solder on a 3/4″ fitting to attach the BOV hose.  It’s a 3/4″ copper T-fitting that I sliced along the back and spread open to match the curve of the big pipe.  It took some bending, hammering, and patience, but it worked.  I then used a short piece of 3/4″ copper pipe in the fitting to connect the hose to.  I connected the BOV to the copper pipe in the fitting with a short piece of 3/4″ I.D. heater hose and then to the air box with another piece.  I already had a 3/4″ copper pipe fitting on the airbox, so I just put a short piece of 3/4″ copper pipe in it to serve as a reducer.  The Bosch BOV used 7/8″ I.D. hose, so the 3/4″ fittings (not 3/4″ pipe) were the perfect O.D.  I squeezed the fittings so the pipe would fit tightly, sanded the surfaces, and then RTVed them in place.  I didn’t want to solder so that I could switch back easily.  The setup works wonderfully and for the first time, my boost is predictable and solid!  This car SCREAMS!!!

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The CSX: September 22, 1999

by on Sep.22, 1999, under CSX

Well, the weekly strife with this car continues.  Monday it barfed out the block core plug behind starter…it had rusted out from the inside.  I replaced it with a expanding rubber core plug (Expand-Tite), which seems to be holding.  The next plug down has some evidence of a very slow leak.  Looks like that one is next.

The piston slap is slowly getting worse.  I think I should start thinking seriously about building-up a new, solid bottom end for this thing.  No screwing around this time….  *sigh*

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The CSX: September 17, 1999

by on Sep.17, 1999, under CSX

Still no leaks, trans fluid, coolant, or otherwise.  The tires are severely out of balance or out of round.  I will try to get them balanced.  That metal-to-metal squeak turned out to be my 2.5″ exhaust rubbing on the rear axle cross members.  That Dynomax muffler is very heavy and it has stretched the stock mount.

Other than that, the car needs new ball joints and outer tie rod ends (boots are gone).  A new set of bushings will probably be good too.  I may just try to find a ’89+ K-frame and put the new ball joints and polyurethane bushings right on it.

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The CSX: September 15, 1999

by on Sep.15, 1999, under CSX

Well, I wanted to get started pulling the trans last night.  This is the first time I got near it since I discovered the left side of the trans, axle, and engine bay covered in trans fluid on Saturday.  I jacked up the car and grabbed the axle.  It was not sloppy at all, compared to how it was before I installed the stabilizer bearing.  Then from the topside, I noticed trans fluid all over the TOP of the trans as well.  It appeared to be coming from the top of the shifter plane (slider) selector lever.  There is a plastic cap on the shaft, which I assume is the gear case vent (it’s not on the bearing retainer plate like on the A525/A520/A555).  I am in the habit of overfilling my trannies by about 1/2 quart.  It works fine on the A520s.  On the A568, it seems to puke the extra oil out.  The oil would run into a webbed area of the top of the trans, fill it up with oil, then it would run down the side, right over the left-side axle.  It appears that this is where the oil is coming from.  I cleaned the whole thing up with acetone so that it is dry and drained the excess fluid from the case (it was still very high).  I then proceeded to address a coolant leak from that stupid head (helicoils).  I may just have lucked out.

I fixed the coolant leaks at the thermostat housing by using the solvent-safe PFTE thread tape with Master #2 Gasketmaker (not RTV, this stuff stays soft).  It appears to be holding up just fine.

I have no doubt that this tranny needs to at least have the diff re-shimmed.  Perhaps even new spiders.  But, it looks like it may be salvageable otherwise.  The stabilizer bearing appears to be doing its job.

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The CSX: September 13, 1999

by on Sep.13, 1999, under CSX

It appears that the stabilizer bearing has self-destructed.  On the way home from the SDACCL meeting on Saturday, I started to notice a sort of vibrating metal-to-metal squeak that was getting louder and louder.  When I got home I found the entire left side of the tranny covered in oil.  I guess the bearing just can’t handle it.  So, it appears that I will be looking for a replacement differential.

Before the meeting I was able to install the new “Jessie Buhr” 2-1/2″ aluminized exhaust system (thanks Mark!).  The fit was mediocre at best and some bending and cutting/rewelding was required.  It’s still a bit off, so I will have to make some tweaks to it.  Aside from that, it is a nice system.  The original 2 1/4″ exhaust with no muffler droned way too much when cruising.  So, I opted for a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler (part# 17710).  It’s a nice unit and is the perfect length to fit in a P, J, or G-body.  It’s a 7″ round, 18″ long unit.  It has a nice sounding idle and seems to be quite good at the top end. Not as good as an open pipe, but good enough for me.

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The CSX: September 10, 1999

by on Sep.10, 1999, under CSX

I believe that I have found a “patch” for my current transmission problems.  Thanks to Joe Dzwil, I was able to install a Techpak-Fitzall Chrysler Axle Stabilizer Bearing (part# 32125LRB).  It’s a neat little unit that installs in place of the stock seal and oil slinger in the trans.  It has an integral roller bearing and seal that rides on the sealing surface of the axle.  A good axle with a smooth and clean sealing surface is required because the roller bearing uses the old sealing surface and the new seal uses the very outer edge of the sealing surface, which will be rusty and dirty on a new axle.  The extra axle I have was in good shape.  Some sandpaper and some rubbing compound later, I had a nice bearing ans sealing surface.  The bearing also has some gripping splines to keep it from spinning and an oiling hole that matches the oil feed hole on the trans.

Before installing the bearing, I fully drained the transmission so that I could clean the surfaces properly.  I did an “Ed Peters” to it by drilling out the hole in the square-shaped boss on the bottom of the differential housing, and tapping it with a 3/8″ NPT tap.  Once it was drained, I plugged the hole with a brass pipe plug using solvent-safe PFTE thread tape (the yellow stuff).  Getting good threads in the boss is tricky because it is slightly too large for the first 1/8″ or so.  Use a slightly smaller drill bit than is required by the tap.  Now I can change the fluid completely without pulling axles or removing the side cover.

Looks like the CSX will be at the SDAC Chicagoland meeting after all!

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