metaruss

Well, the strut is still on there.  Turns out that the strut rod nut was loose and was somehow pushing the center part of the strut mount up.  Once it was tightened, everything moved back to where it should be.  The strut is shot though and the other front strut isn’t fairing much better.  I am going to try to warranty them.  I did fix the passenger side window and both have stayed fixed for now.  The car developed an annoying missfire/breakup above 3000rpm above 15psi of boost.  I fiddled with a few things and finally replaced the plugs with some new AutoLite 63s, as the AutoLite 64s that were in there had about 35k on them and were really worn.  That seemed to help, but it is still not as strong as it was before.

The 7-year-old exhaust, an original “Jessie Buhr” aluminized 2.5″ system with a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, has been falling apart for about a year now.  I’ve been patching it as it broke but had ordered a full 3″ stainless system from FWD Performance in the meantime.  Finally the twice-patched muffler simply disintegrated last week, so I decided to install the new system this weekend.

Man, what a chore.  It is by no means a drop-in kit.  Quite a bit of cutting and welding was required, especially in the area around the axle.  My goal was to make a stock-looking exhaust at the tail pipes, so I picked up a Dynomax Super Turbo muffer that has a 3″ inlet and a pair of 2.5″ outlets (p/n 17674).  A pair of stainless 2.25″ 45-degree bends from ATP Turbo serve as the tail pipes (using a couple of 2.5″-2.25″ bushings).  I was quickly reminded that the early 2.25″ swing valve housing on the turbo will not accept the 3″ downpipe donut, so I dug an old 2.5″ downpipe out of the spiderwebs in the corner and happened to have a 2.5″ ID – 3″ OD adapter.  I spent all day Saturday cutting and fitting while trying to clear the spring, fuel tank, and axle.  You can see my beautiful welding technique.  The setup currently has no cat and man is it loud.  I might as well have no muffler at all.  I’m going to have to add a straight-through muffer in the cat’s position to quiet it down (I have a Dymomax Ultra Flo p/n 17296 sitting here).

I also added an additional mount on the brake line bracket, which should keep the exhaust from swaying back and forth and hitting the fuel tank and spring.  It’s a tight fit back there.

Well, the trans is still holding up well and the OBX still rocks.  There is a bizzare noise that happens when the axles get torqued-up a certain way by the diff.  I think it’s actually a wheel bearing, possibly from the guard rail impact.  It sounds like a bearing.  The rest of the car seems to be falling apart.  The fallout from by little guard rail adventure continues.  The driver’s side strut started getting really loose a few weeks ago (4-year old Koni) and the strut mount self-destructed last week.  The impact, which whacked the top of the wheel hard enough to shove the camber adjustment all the way in, must have bent the tube slightly.  I can’t tell by looking at it, but some paint flaked off where the tube may have collapsed and popped back out.  It must have made the piston bind-up or something, because the strut mount is practically punched-out.

In addition to that, I have this continuing battle with the windows.  First, the driver’s side would get stuck due to the misshapen tracks from the impact mentioned above.  After fixing that, the next day the passenger side window track tab broke and the window kept falling out of the track.  I put up with that for about a week before I made a new tab out of aluminum.  The next day the driver’s side window motor started acting wierd where the window would stop but the motor kept going.  Eventually that window would just fall down every time I hit a bump.  Finally I took the motor apart, replaced the wacky cushions that go between the drive gear and the external gear.  Then the next day the passenger side window started getting stuck on the way down.  It looks like the glass is hitting something metal, as it is getting scratched.  Argh.  I’m afraid to fix it, for fear of what will happen next on the driver’s side.

The new trans seems to be working well.  It’s an A555/A520 hybrid (A555 with the mainshaft and ring gear from an A520) with a 3.50:1 ratio.  This is the perfect gearing for this car.  This setup with the OBX torque biasing differential is a great combo.  The only weak point is the mainshaft bearing surface.  The bearing near the pinion gear rides right on the shaft and eventually the area starts to break up from surface fatigue.  This shaft has a bit of life left in it, but when it goes I won’t have anything to put in its place.  The later transaxles (A523/A543/A568) have a real inner bearing race here.  The bearing itself is the same, so it may just be a matter of machining the shaft down to accept the race.  My main concern is the weakening of the shaft from removing the hardened surface in that area.  It may create a stress point at the base of the pinion gear.  If it were to break, the transmission would be destroyed.  That is not something I am willing to risk with this tranny.

The OBX is an interesting piece.  The car really wants to accelerate in a straight line, as the torque tends to get biased to the inside wheel.  The effect goes away when coasting.  I didn’t beat on it too much since it is brand new and I also put in a new clutch that needs a little break-in time.  It is made in China and is basically a cheap knock-off of the Quaife unit that was designed for the Dodge Neon 420A transmission.  It definitely needs to be gone-through when received.  There are issues with the spring washer orientantion, the case bolt torques, and the axle fitment.  The machining on the element gears, the axle holes in the case, and the splines are also pretty rough and need to be checked/honed/deburred.  Time will tell on how they hold up down the road, but at one third the price of a Quaife they are an attractive option even with their flaws.  I will be changing the trans fluid once it gets a couple of hundred miles on it.

Well, it’s running so sweet that I broke 2nd gear.  It was an A520, but it had the chrome-moly bearing retainer plate.  Time to accelerate the A555 build-up that I’ve been putting off, as the Daytona is still apart.  Picked up an OBX and JT hooked me up with some carrier bearings.  The main shaft in the A520 still looked pretty good.  It’s got one little dink on the bearing surface…like it chewed something (a gear tooth perhaps…).  Hopefully it will hold for a while.  New shafts are no where to be found.  Gonna have to find a way to fix these things.

I was running 5psi of boost all winter, to save the Blizzaks.  That’s why I didn’t notice that my intermediate sprocket had jumped ahead a tooth when I swapped the cam.  When I turned up the boost, it misfired badly when I accelerated.  Set it to 10 degrees and now it is running sweet.

For reasons I don’t quite understand, the #4 exhaust cam and follower got trashed.  The valve train was making some horrible sounds when I got home from the meeting last night.  I swapped the FM475 cam with an ’88 TBI roller cam.  Also put in the PT Cruiser followers.  The valvetrain is very quite and the lope at idle is gone.  Idles real smooth, but runs a little rich now and lost some bottom-end and midrange torque.  Pulls OK at the top end.  Need an adjustible cam sprocket, as I can’t remember if the donor car had the square tooth or round tooth sprocket.

Some dude switched lanes right in front of me while I was accelerating to merge into traffic and checking my blind spot.  I hit the brakes and swerved too hard to avoid him, came around and ended up in the guard rail while going backwards.  These cars are way too tail-happy when you are really on the hooks.  The car hit the front corner first, so the front fender and the door took the brunt of the damage.  They are a loss, but the rear quarter is definately fixable…it didn’t even touch the tail light.  All four of my new tires have flat spots on them now, especially the fronts.  Grr….

I pushed the front-end underbody out with the Porta-Power, gave the fender some foot-stomping action out in the yard.  Also used the Porta-Power to push the door back out by the hinges.  Doesn’t look half-bad, considering how little time I spent on it.  The Daytona is nowhere near being done, so the CSX still needs to put out.

I got the 225/50 HR15 Kumho ECSTA 711s mounted on a half-decent set of 15×6.5″ crabs.  The balance is not great, but boy can this thng handle now.

Took the CSX to Ohio for SDAC15.  There was no way that my work schedule would let me finish it in time (it’s not even close).  Had an awesome time as always, except for the nasty hangover on the last day (oops).  The car did OK, though I couldn’t break into the 14s at all this year.  It just doesn’t feel right at the top end and the boost always drops way off.  With the wastegate disconnected, it can barely keep 15psi when I wind it all the way up.  I tried wiring the wastegate shut, but that didn’t help either.  At low engine speeds, it’ll crank out 20psi with no trouble.  Not sure what the deal is, but I do think it needs a bigger turbo.  I have that TU S60 with the .48 A/R housing and clipped turbine.  The Daytona’s engine has been collecting better toys since I got the turbo, so maybe it should get a true Super 60 instead.  It may be that I have the (modified) Talon BOV in the bottom hose and at high engine speeds, the IC starts backing up and the pressure in the lower hose goes insanely high and pushes the valve open.  I may try to remove the BOV and see what happens.

All put back together and back on the road so that I can put the Daytona down for a while. I cobbled-together a small guage cluster and mounted it under the center console.  It has the fual pressure, oil pressure, and the new oil temperature guages.  It’s basically a Radio Shack 8″ x 5.5″ x 3″ ABS project case.  The guages are angled towards the driver with those Auto Meter inserts.  It doesn’t look great, but its servicable.